Hiking Warrumbungles National Park

Last weekend, we went camping at Warrumbungle National Park, Australia's first Dark Sky Park. Australia in general already enjoys really low light pollution; even in Sydney, we can see the faint band of the Milky Way with our naked eye. But out there in Warrumbungle, my goodness. We could see, quite clearly, those billion little …

Hiking in Mount Kosciuszko National Park: Day Two

It's fun to go off trail. It's fun to wander off the beaten track to go where few people venture, to pretend for a moment that we're early explorers discovering the great unknown. Remind me of this fact the next time I complain about 'getting lost'. 🙂 It says something when we eventually link back …

Hiking in Mount Kosciuszko National Park: Day One

We took advantage of the Australia Day long weekend and joined a group of friends to tackle Mount Kosciuszko again. Our intrepid hike leader, Ed, mapped out a more ambitious - but super fun - trail than the easy one from the Thredbo chairlift we'd initially tackled last November. Our main route was the Main Range Track, …

Hiking the Overland Track – Day 6: Windy Ridge to Narcissus

Last day of the walk. I approached it with nothing but dread and grim determination. Which felt wrong. The climbs were over. This was supposed to be the easy bit - 9km of "gradual easy descent to Narcissus hut through eucalypt forest and across buttongrass plains". But even jamming my feet into my still damp …

Hiking the Overland Track – Day 5: Kia Ora to Windy Ridge

I was hobbling. Fresh blisters were now forming on the inner sides of both my heels, joining the blisters that had engulfed my big toe and two pinkie toes. My pace had slowed to a crawl, and stopping for breaks meant painful restarts, so I just grimly plowed on. The tale of the pilgrim who …

Hiking the Overland Track – Day 4: Pelion to Kia Ora

The rains finally abated. I stole out of my tent to the helipad and watched the clouds dance over the imposing dolerite face of Mount Oakleigh while a thin layer of fog clung around its base. The camp was not yet stirring. I took the opportunity to stretch out. It still amazed me how my brother …

Hiking the Overland Track – Day 2: Waterfall Valley to Lake Windemere

The winds and rain assailed us for most of the night, dying down only at daybreak. When I no longer heard the rustling of the winds and only the call of birds, I poked my head out of my tent, to stare right into the face of a calmly grazing pademelon. It paid me little …